On Friday I loaded up the panniers and backpack, took the train from Watford to London, risked cycling to Kings Cross - the most dangerous 1 mile of the whole weekend! - and 3 hours later was in Newcastle. 4 hours later in Whitehaven, you can't book bikes Newcastle to Carlisle, but the conductor let 4 on, the others being commuters. Then jumped the one way system to the Waverley Hotel. Friday night is humming in Whitehaven, the bars full and rowdy. I checked out the start of the route, quick curry, then to bed to awake for an early breakfast. Being alone I intended to cycle as far as I could each day, and expected it to take 3 days.
Day One
8:00 start, and onto the railway path, avoiding slugs, collapsed shopping carts, dog walkers and dog poo. The slight incline was tedious and meant constantly cycling. The undulating road to Loweswater was a relief to swoop up and down the hills with fabulous views, then round to Lorton and sight of Whinlatter. The severe uphill were a shock, but the forest track eased and I was at the Visitors Centre without collapsing. Rewarded myself with a bacon roll, and refilled the Camelbak as the hot sun was causing me to spray sweat. A local cyclist recommended the railway route out of Keswick. The forest track down flew by, then relaxing roads by the lake into a busy market day Keswick. The railway route had none of the steps marked on my old map, and I was paced by a MTB'er going up Skiddaw who shared opening the gates.
From Threlkeld to Troutbeck I used the cycle path on the A66 and parallel side roads rather than the new marked route, then into Greystoke for a lunch stop at 14:00. This was going much faster than I expected. Penrith was also a market day, but the signs worked to lead me through, then up a tedious pull out and on to Langwathby. The option was to stay here the night. But the sky was clear and bright blue, and at 17:30 I refueled and drained the last of my water at the bottom of Hartside. Rejecting the off road short cut, I steadily ground my way up, no faster than walking but the road gradient was acceptable. A dark black band of cloud appeared over the summit which I reached at 18:30.
No reason to hang around, so donned fleece and switched on lights to coast down to Alston. First sign was for the YHA, I'd had enough, so checked in (luckily a large party has just cancelled so there was plenty of room).
Day Two
8:45 and the legs creaked. Had I over done it? It seemed so as I crawled up through cobbled Alston, but the run down into Nenthead restored my spirits, only to have them dashed by the climb out up to Black Hill in damp cloud. In and out of cloud down to Allenheads, and a welcome break at the Hemmel Café with a dozen other cyclists at 11:00. I was recommended not to go to Sunderland because a) it wasn't as pretty as Tynemouth and b) the railway path had many obstacles and gates and c) Newcastle was worth seeing instead. The now-expected pull out of the village was followed by a long run down into Rookhope. The railway incline was too much and too rough for a laden bike, so I pushed for half an hour before cresting the top and speeding over Stanhope Moor on the relatively smooth track. Waskerley railway path was the reverse of Whitehaven's - the slight downcline allowed a fast pace only hampered by the gates.
At the junction at Consett the C2C signs for the Derwent Way had clearly been removed, and Rowlands Gill was signed into Consett. A local explained this was due to the rerouting through Consett centre to give more trade to the shops - not much point on a Sunday and one extra mile as well. The Derwent Way path signs were obvious and soon Sustrans signs were restored. Very few gates, a smooth surface, empty path, great views over viaducts, and down to the Tyne by about 15:00.
The Keelmans Way on the south bank was under repair, so I crossed to the north and found myself on the pavement of a desolate dual carriageway until it cut down to the riverside proper and a delightful empty ride into the centre of Newcastle. Over the new millennium foot/bike bridge to follow the variable signage to the foot tunnel, (which bikes can cycle through) back to the North Shields tyneshore to reach Tynemouth at 17:50.
The sun was shining, the sea looked friendly. I was surprised how fit I felt and elated by what I had achieved. Sunday trains are too random, so I booked into a B&B in the main street, showered, eat and crashed.
Total miles logged as 145 at an average speed of 10 mph.
Homeward
Typical tyneside weather - drizzle sea cloud. Aiming for the 09:30 train, I left at 08:15 and navigated myself to the centre of Newcastle, almost ending up on the motorway inner ring road, before finding the station just in time to change into a fresh set of clothes on the platform, consigning the dripping cycle gear to the bags.
Learning points
- a camelbak was essential for continuous riding, not just in heat. I drank 3 to 4 litres each day.
- snacks kept up the energy levels, with no long lunch rests (save the pub for the evenings!)
- start early and use all the daylight hours
- don't be fazed by the uphills, a decent downhill will follow.
- I only used a ¼ of what I took. Though I was comforted by having the wet and cold weather gear available if needed, at times it felt too heavy
- the Sustrans map was detailed enough to pick out near by points, and the signs were then there as a confirmation of anticipated turnings. This kept up the interest and I was never bored